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7 Emerging Brands to Know from Berlin Fashion Week’s FW24 Season – V Magazine

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Many guests and onlookers are putting their bets on Berlin Fashion Week—and rightfully so. Ahead of the “Big 4” international events—New York, London, Milan, and Paris—Berlin was a bustling cornucopia for emerging talents to truly shine. The four-day event, which ran from Feb. 5 to 8, was packed with many shows and events scattered throughout the German capital. With help from big-name sponsors like Don Julio and Uber, one message is now clear: Berlin Fashion Week is, without a doubt, a burgeoning fashion scape ready to finally get its flowers.

The Fall/Winter 2024 presentations were filled to the brim with fresh talent hungry to leave a mark on the fashion week calendar. The city regularly hosted its more established names like Namilia, the label known for its very riské designs (and, not to mention, the brains behind the first drop of Kylie Jenner’s Khy brand), alongside William Fan, Richert Beil, and Shayne Oliver’s Anonymous Club. But it was also bubbling with a slew of young creatives paving the way for inclusivity and sustainability—all given a platform thanks to support systems available by Germany’s Fashion Council, which helped a total of 18 designers (14 local and four from Ukraine) this season. V rounded up the best highlights from the Berlin Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2024 shows below, from veteran mainstays to newer names.

William Fan

William Fan is known for fusing European elements with his Chinese roots, and his Fall/Winter 2024 line was no exception. Fan’s ready-to-wear presentation was held at Berlin’s Olympic Stadium, with the collection, titled “Off Duty,” emphasizing the concept of a suitcase-friendly wardrobe. The Berlin-based creative reimagined the possibilities of leisurewear through easy-to-wear silhouettes for those always on the go; Faded neutrals, oversized silhouettes, and intentional layering ran rampant throughout as an effortlessly stylish solution even for those who simply want to go to the grocery store.

Marke

Mario Keine may have launched his label Marke in 2021, but it’s already become a label to watch. Keine’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection, “Allezeit bei mir,” or “Always with me,” is the final unfolding of a three-part story from previous seasons. Keine utilizes his latest line as a visual scrapbook inspired by his very own recollection of silent memories. Pieces sourced entirely from deadstock fabrics are turned into a capsule of unisex workwear confections, including signature sleek outwear and, for the first time, classic tailoring inspired by the 1950s. Almost every look was finished with frilly finishes, skyscraping beanies, and studded flats.

SF1OG

SF1OG took its audience back to school, noughties style. With designers Rosa Dahl and Jacob Langemeyer at the helm, the Berlin-based brand embraced the nostalgic, rule-breaking spirit of rebellious teens—or should we say, “Teenage Dirtbags.” The presentation was staged at the city’s Ernst-Reuter-Gymnasium, with guests seated on school chairs and given folded paper hats as show notes. Models weaved through a backdrop of chalkboards, apples, and school desks, carrying accessories such as backpacks, leather satchels, or an old issue of Germany’s teen magazine, Bravo. The collection itself embodied school kids bound for trouble, playing with a slightly dystopian approach via deconstructed uniforms—plaid skirts over pants, loose ties, baggy silhouettes, and, if you look closely, an Eastpak collaboration. 

Richert Beil 

Perhaps one of the biggest shows with the largest turnouts was Richert Beil. In light of the label’s 10th anniversary, designers Jale Richert and Michele Beil turned their Fall/Winter 2024 collection, “Nachlass” or “Heritage,” into a time capsule that revisited a decade’s worth of signature pieces and patterns. It also included cheeky and humorous nods from traditional German fashion heritage and grandmacore-inspired styles. Models emerged onto the runway with flowers and cake in hand, wearing monochrome suits, sets, and smocks—some of them part of “Treasure Hunt” pieces, or designs partly or fully recycled from old horse gear and saddles, vintage shapewear, and antique laces. Ensembles were paired with sentimental accessories such as pearls, heirloom necklaces, and brooches. 

Gerrit Jacob

Hamburg-born, Central Saint Martins alum Gerrit Jacob came prepared with a stacked resume, launching his eponymous label in 2022 after time spent working in womenswear studios at Balenciaga, Martine Rose, and Gucci. Berlin’s fashion scene heavily relies on neutrals and simplicity, but for Jacob, vibrance reigns supreme. In his streetwear-heavy collection, every piece was emblazoned with vibrant neon airbrushing; Silhouettes like puffer coats, mini skirts, and sweats became a canvas for Jacob’s statement-making graffiti work. 

Malaikaraiss

Malaikaraiss has seamlessly mastered the art of basics and minimalism galore. Its Pre-Fall 2024/25 collection, “Imagine,” was studded with timeless staples from slightly slouchy off-shoulder dresses to sleek outerwear, all of which air on the side of confident ease and cool femininity. Designer Malaika Raiss credits her inspiration from the ’90s, specifically John Frusciante of the Red Hot Chili Peppers. “We combined his grungy style, positive California vibes, layering, and the grandpa-thrift style with a hyper-feminine silhouette, dropped shoulders, and low-waist pants,” she says. “And when we talk about low-waist jeans, we mean Mariah Carey low-waist jeans without a waistband.”

Namilia

​​Namilia has returned to Berlin for its second season in a row after showcasing in New York for five years. Led by co-founders Emilia Pfohl and Nan Li, the Fall/Winter 2024 show, “Pfoten weg!” or “Paws off,” addresses the discrimination against queer people in public spaces. The collection relied on the concept of protection, lacing in medieval armor and military silhouettes with Y2K-inspired styles you’d likely wear to the rave. Leather motocross-inspired sets, bedazzled itty bitty minis, and elaborate gowns all convey bold political statements and sex-positive messaging—a core part of the brand’s DNA.

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